Sobria's non-dry January: one word needed – Condividere

In January, I embarked on lovely and delightful culinary experiences in Torino with two partners in crime. The main word characterising these days has been “condividere”, which literally means “sharing”. On one hand, sharing the cozy atmosphere of home cooking with blind tastings of artisanal wines and exquisite flavours with friends. On another memorable night, sharing an exceptional dining experience with friends at, literally, “Condividere”—a Michelin-starred restaurant renowned for its innovative approach to Italian cuisine. 

Cozy evenings with friends: between blind tastings and home cooking at its finest

At home, we embarked on culinary experiments, and the winner was a risotto with black garlic and red pepper. The deep, umami-rich flavors of black garlic harmonised beautifully with the subtle heat of red pepper, creating a dish that was both comforting and complex. Paired with carefully selected wines, this meal became a testament to the joys of cooking and sharing with friends. But this article is all about the wines that I discovered thanks to the blind tasting choices of my friends. My highlights:

1. Per Mano by Alberia, a small, sustainable winery located in Marsala, Sicily, known for producing wines from indigenous grape varieties. The winery has a strong focus on organic farming and traditional winemaking methods that respect the terroir of the region. The winery's vineyards are located in the fertile soils of Marsala, benefiting from a Mediterranean climate that imparts distinctive flavours to the grapes. Alberia employs sustainable farming practices, emphasising organic cultivation to preserve the environment and enhance the quality of their wines. "Per Mano" presents a harmonious blend of the crisp acidity from Catarratto and Grillo grapes. On the nose, it offers a bouquet of citrus fruits, green apple, and subtle floral notes. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with a balanced minerality and a lingering finish that reflects the essence of Sicilian winemaking.

1. Rosso di Grignanello by Il Borgo di Grignanello, a distinguished winery situated in the heart of Tuscany. The vineyards are located on a hilltop, benefiting from a privileged position between Panzano and Castellina in Chianti. The estate comprises six hectares of old vineyards, many dating back to the early 1960s, along with olive groves and woodlands. The winery is committed to sustainable farming, avoiding the use of herbicides, chemical products, or other pesticides. Among the winery's offerings is Rosso di Grignanello, which I had the pleasure of tasting. It is a red wine crafted primarily from Sangiovese grapes, complemented by Canaiolo and Colorino. The wine is vinified and aged in terracotta amphorae, a traditional method that imparts unique characteristics to the wine. It presents a vibrant ruby color with violet hues. The nose is expressive, featuring aromas of ripe red fruits. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with balanced acidity and soft tannins, leading to a harmonious and persistent finish. One especially distinctive character  which always allows me to guess the Sangiovese: the “arancia sanguinella” vibrant presence.
   

   
   

   

   
   

2. Onde Gravitazionali by Fabio Gea: I already had the pleasure of speaking about Gea in one of my latest blog articles, “Holiday wine highlights: a journey through exceptional terroirs” (click here if you missed it!), where I described the lovely Barbaresco from 2018. Fabio Gea is a distinguished natural winemaker based in the Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy. Gea’s vineyards are located in the prestigious Barbaresco region, where he embraces a philosophy of minimal intervention in the winemaking process. He opts for materials such as ceramics, porcelain, glass, cement, and wood, rather than stainless steel, for fermentation and aging. He avoids using temperature control, cultured yeasts, fining, filtration, or adding sulfur in many of his wines. Onde Gravitazionali is a red wine that reflects Gea's dedication to natural methods. It is primarily composed of around 80% Barbera, with Nebbiolo and other undisclosed white grape varieties, sourced from vines that range from 10 to 50 years old. The wine offers inviting aromas of wild berries and spices. On the palate, it delivers a juicy burst of dark fruit flavours, with a harmonious blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo, creating a surprising yet balanced profile.

A Michelin-starred experience at Condividere

Our culinary journey culminated at Condividere, Michelin-starred restaurant in Torino. I have been looking forward to trying the restaurant for a few months. Located in the iconic Nuvola Lavazza complex, Condividere is known for its innovative approach to Italian cuisine. The name "Condividere," which means "to share" in Italian, reflects the philosophy of the restaurant: communal dining where each dish is made to be enjoyed together. The menu, designed by chef Federico Zanasi, is a mix of traditional Italian dishes with modern twists, and it truly offers an extraordinary food experience.

When you open the menu you can read the quote from Ferran Adrià,

“Condividere is not a restaurant, but a way of living”

Reading this, you already know that what is going to come through that kitchen door will be unique. The evening began with the iconic "Oliva Sferica" from El Bulli, a reference to the famed Ferran Adrià restaurant, which showcased an olive's traditional flavours in a completely new and innovative format. From there on, we were taken on a culinary journey, and I want to recall some of my favourite delights: the Millefoglie of foie gras and nuts, Piedmont Katsu Sando, Albese meat, the Agnolotti, a traditional Piedmontese pasta dish, served with a rich, flavourful filling and accompanied by a sauce that complemented the pasta's texture, and the Gnocco Burro e Oro, an innovative interpretation of gnocchi with tomatoes, created from the tomato itself, and accompanied by a creamy tomato sauce that balanced acidity with sweetness.

The wines’ choices were even more delightful:

Champagne l'Ascendant by Mouzon-Leroux, which is a Champagne house located in the prestigious Montagne de Reims, in the village of Verzy. The estate spans about 10 hectares, with the majority of the vineyards located in Verzy, while the remainder are in Verzenay, Ludes, and Villers-Marmery. The estate follows both organic and biodynamic practices, emphasizing sustainability in viticulture.

The vineyards of Mouzon-Leroux are classified as Grand Cru, benefiting from the exceptional terroir of Verzy. The estate strictly avoids the use of herbicides, chemicals, or synthetic pesticides, instead focusing on organic farming methods. With an emphasis on quality over quantity, the estate carefully manages the vineyards and harvests by hand to ensure the best possible juice.

One of the standout wines from Mouzon-Leroux is Champagne l'Ascendant, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. This cuvée is produced using a solera method, blending wines from different vintages to create a consistent and complex profile. The wine ferments with indigenous yeasts and undergoes a typical aging period of six months in the cellars post-disgorgement. Champagne l'Ascendant appears with a pale yellow colour, characterised by a fine and persistent perlage. The nose is delicate, ripe yellow fruit, lemon, apple, and is further enhanced by prominent notes of toasted dried fruit, pastry, and limestone. On the palate, it is broad, rich, and full of flavour, with a harmonious development and a delightful freshness and minerality.

Clos Magny 2022 Côte de Nuits-Villages by Domaine Camille Thiriet. The Domaine was founded in 2016, is an emerging winery located in the Côte de Nuits region of Burgundy, France. Established by Matt Chittick, a Canadian-born winemaker, and Camille Thiriet, a professional from the Burgundy wine industry, the domaine initially started as a micro-négoce, producing small-batch cuvées. The vineyards are nestled in Corgoloin, a village situated between Comblanchien and Nuits-Saint-Georges. The terroir consists of gently sloping terrain with brown soils overlaying limestone, providing excellent drainage and ensuring the health of the vines. Initially practicing lutte raisonnée (a pragmatic approach that prioritises sustainability while maintaining productivity in agriculture), the domaine shifted to organic farming methods after acquiring the estate. They combine horse plowing with tractor use to rejuvenate the soil, aiming to boost biodiversity and improve soil fertility.

I had the pleasure of tasting one of the flagship wines of the domaine: Clos Magny 2022 Côte de Nuits-Villages. It is a red wine made with Pinot Noir grapes. This production comes from a parcel in the famed Le Clos de Magny climat in Corgoloin. The wine had a bright ruby-purple colour. Its nose filled with lively aromas of fresh red berries, complemented by light hints of liquorice and on the palate it was smooth, with a good balance of rich fruit flavours and a graceful structure. I loved it! 

The dining experience continued in a dedicated room for desserts, where we were lulled into a cozy, intimate atmosphere. The desserts were exquisite. To accompany the desserts, I chose a fine Porto, which gave the dessert a rich, velvety sweetness that was the ideal finale to an unforgettable meal.

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This month-long exploration not only deepened my love for the concept of “condividere”, sharing great blind tastings, home made food experiments and fine dining. Each wine, whether from Alberia, Il Borgo di Grignanello, Fabio Gea, Mouzon-Leroux, or Domaine Camille Thiriet, showcased the unique terroirs and passionate winemaking that define these regions, the way I love it.