Sopravvento: The Soul of Carema, Rooted in Nature

In the steep and inspiring landscapes of Carema, a tiny jewel of northern Piedmont, the winery Sopravvento has quietly emerged as a beacon of authenticity, craft, and respect for nature. Founded in 2019 by Michele and Matteo Melfa, two brothers and sommeliers with extensive experience in Italy and abroad, Sopravvento is a deeply personal project born of passion and a desire to create wines that speak directly of their origins.

The name Sopravvento, meaning "upwind," reflects the ethos of the winery—to push against the grain, to embrace challenges, and to cultivate a relationship with the land that prioritises harmony over exploitation. From their humble start, the Melfa brothers have worked with just a small parcel of vineyards in Carema, cultivating native varieties with care and precision. Despite the challenges of the region's rugged, terraced terrain, their work has already gained significant recognition, with annual limited production, a hallmark of their artisanal philosophy.

The story of Sopravvento is also deeply intertwined with the personal growth of the Melfa brothers. Both left Carema to pursue careers as sommeliers— in London and in Michelin-starred restaurants—and their time abroad fueled a deeper understanding of wine and terroir. It was a visit to a David Bowie exhibition in 2013 that ignited the brother’s dream of returning home to start a winery. With their father's support, this dream became reality, and their first wine, "Changes!," pays tribute to the moment of inspiration.

Carema: Heroic Viticulture in a Unique Terroir

Carema is a region known for its heroic viticulture, where steep, terraced vineyards cling to the Alpine foothills. The area’s vineyards are defined by dry-stone walls, pergolas, and rocky soils rich in minerals, which imbue the wines with complexity and precision. The microclimate—cool and ventilated, but warmed by Mediterranean breezes—further enhances the quality of the grapes, particularly Nebbiolo, which is the area's hallmark variety.

The challenges of farming in such a setting require an immense amount of manual labor, making it a region where only the most committed winemakers thrive. This spirit of dedication is at the heart of Sopravvento's work, where every decision in the vineyard and cellar reflects a deep respect for the land.

Wines That Speak of the Land

Sopravvento's wines are as thoughtful and expressive as the philosophy behind them. Their inaugural release, "Changes!", is a white wine crafted from 100% Erbaluce, a native variety celebrated for its versatility and vibrancy. On the nose, "Changes!" is alive with aromas of mimosa, chamomile, and dried herbs, underpinned by balsamic notes of resin. The palate is equally compelling, offering flavours of ripe apricot, a touch of salinity, and a taut, tannic structure that is both fresh and balanced. Made through spontaneous fermentation with native white grapes, the wine undergoes over a month of skin contact, including some whole clusters. It is aged in neutral acacia barrels until it reaches the desired maturity. After bottling, the wine is stored in a historic 19th-century 'Balmetto,' where constant temperature and humidity create ideal conditions.

Looking ahead, the production of their Carema’s Nebbiolo is an exclusive delight which counts less than 600 bottles and gets sold out without any advertisement needed. The Nebbiolo grapes, grown heroically on steep, hand-cultivated terraces, were harvested and fermented for the first vintage in 2022. The wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation, followed by aging in neutral oak barrels until it reaches its ideal maturity. It is then bottled and further refined in their Carema cellar, as required by tradition. Named "Heroes!", as they advertise it in the website, this wine boasts a robust tannic structure and aromatic complexity. I still have to experience the joy of tasting it!  This wine promises to be a true expression of the region's unique terroir, further cementing Sopravvento's place among the most exciting small producers in northern Piedmont.

A Voice for Nature

Central to Sopravvento is the philosophy of minimal intervention. I spoke a lot with Matteo as he took care of my visit. He is a passionate advocate for the symbiotic relationship between man and nature, emphasises the importance of allowing the vineyard to express itself with as little interference as possible. Recently, one of his striking decisions was to remove the plastic vine protectors commonly used to shield vines during grass cutting.

Matteo believes that sunlight and exposure to the elements are crucial for the health of the plants and that cutting grass by hand, while labor-intensive, preserves the biodiversity of the vineyard. This is just one of the many examples I could relate to give the sense of their philosophy. Sometimes, as he explained, as humans we overuse products or prioritise convenience over respect for nature. We forget that true beauty lies in the raw, unfiltered state of the land—not in the polished, domesticated version we create. Imagine a beautiful garden with grass, wild flowers, spontaneous herbs, bees, butterflies and all of the biodiversity living in that ecosystem. That is beauty, for him, doesn’t lie on a perfectly cut grass where you walk in, which has no life above it.

Matteo's ethos extends to every aspect of Sopravvento's farming practices. From avoiding excessive treatments to fostering spontaneous vegetation, he aims to maintain the delicate balance of the ecosystem. The focus is not only on the quality of the wine but also on ensuring that their work leaves a positive impact on the environment.

Rebel, Rebel

Sopravvento may still be a young winery, but its dedication to craft, respect for nature, and unwavering focus on quality have already set it apart. Michele and Matteo, two Rebels as David Bowie would dare saying, their work in Carema is not only a celebration of the land but also a reminder of the profound connection between wine and place.

As their production grows, albeit slowly and sustainably, Sopravvento is poised to make a lasting impression on the world of wine. With each bottle, they offer a glimpse into the soul of Carema—a place where tradition, passion, and nature converge in every glass.

I’m very much looking forward to tasting the Nebbiolo!

And you?