Cián du Giorgi: reviving the forgotten vines of Cinque Terre

Few weeks ago I decided it was the time to open one bottle from my cantina: Ade, vintage 2019, Cián du Giorgi. The rosé was a surprise and a joy for my palate, and it perfectly paired together with a Spaghetti with fresh lemons from Ravello. It standout for its vibrant character and minimalistic approach, freshness and fruity aromas. Drinking it I could remember every single details of the moment I bought it.

Cián du Giorgi

Nestled within the beautiful landscape of the Cinque Terre National Park, in the tiny hamlet of San Bernardino, lies a small but mighty wine company, Cián du Giorgi. This family-run winery, led by Adeline and Riccardo, is not only preserving the region's winemaking heritage but is also driving it forward through innovation, passion, and a deep respect for the land. 

During my recent visit, I had the privilege of meeting Adeline, a warm and knowledgeable host who introduced me to the extraordinary work that she and Riccardo are doing to revive ancient grape varieties of the Cinque Terre, some of which were at risk of being lost to time. The vineyards they tend are more than just old—they are a living connection to the region's rich viticultural past, with vines that have thrived for over 100 years.

Cinque Terre’s vineyards are a testament to the heroic viticulture of the region. Steep, terraced slopes plunge towards the sea, making it one of the most challenging wine regions in the world to cultivate. The rocky terrain, combined with the Mediterranean climate and the influence of the sea, creates a distinctive terroir that gives the wines their unique character.

Cián du Giorgi's vineyards are no exception. Situated high on the hillsides near San Bernardino, their vines benefit from cooling sea breezes, salty air, and abundant sunshine. This combination of factors gives their wines a complex minerality, freshness, and aromatic depth that reflect the harsh yet beautiful environment in which they are grown. 

Reviving ancient varieties

Adeline and Riccardo are not just producing wine—they are also conducting important research with local universities to rediscover ancient grape varieties that were once cultivated in their vineyards. They have uncovered rare indigenous varieties in their vineyard, and with biodynamic practices, they are nurturing these ancient vines back to life. Their commitment to sustainable agriculture is evident in the way they treat the land, employing organic and biodynamic methods to maintain soil health and preserve biodiversity.

The wines of Cián du Giorgi

I was fortunate enough to taste the first two wines that Adeline and Riccardo have released at the time of my visit: Ade and Amante dei Venti. These wines offer a window into the incredible potential of the region's ancient vines and the artistry of Cián du Giorgi’s winemaking. What I liked most is also the respect for the terroir even in the choice of using only indigenous yeasts.

- Ade is a rosé wine produced from Pollera, Bonamico, Ciliegiolo grapes and other indigenous variates. It carries fresh, fruity aromas with a structured yet balanced palate. It’s crisp, aromatic with a distinct minerality and salinity, capturing the essence of the coastal terroir. It’s a refreshing, vibrant wine that pairs beautifully with the local cuisine, especially with fresh pesto and the region’s famed focaccia.

- Amante dei Venti is a white wine made from a blend of local varieties including Albarola, Bosco, and Vermentino, cultivated on century-old vines. This wine has notes of white flowers, pear, peach, eucalyptus, and Mediterranean herbs, with a hint of marine salinity. On the palate, it is mineral-driven, with a crisp acidity and a long, savoury finish. Its delicate elegance and expressive minerality make it a true embodiment of the Cinque Terre landscape.

I was also delighted to hear that Cián du Giorgi was experimenting with a macerated wine, which I look forward to tasting on my next visit. And of course, I’m particularly excited about their future production of Sciacchetrà, the legendary sweet wine of the Cinque Terre, which is still in the works. Sciacchetrà is traditionally made from sun-dried grapes and aged for several years, producing a complex, golden nectar that is cherished for its intense flavours of dried fruit, honey, and spice. 

So far I see they are producing other two wines: Azzurro, a Cinque Terre DOC white wine, and Amante del Sole, the macerated wine I mentioned. Another good excuse to go back visiting them as soon as possible!

A culinary pairing to remember

No visit to Cinque Terre is complete without sampling the local cuisine, and my experience at Cian du Giorgi was no exception. Adeline prepared a delightful pairing of their wines with traditional Ligurian focaccia and pesto from Corniglia, a nearby village famous for this iconic sauce. The freshness of the pesto, with its fragrant basil, pine nuts, and olive oil, harmonised beautifully with the bright acidity of the wines, creating a perfect balance of flavours.

A heroic wine story

Cian du Giorgi’s story is one of resilience, courage, and a deep love for the land. In a region where cultivating vineyards requires hard, physical labour and a true commitment to the environment, Adeline and Riccardo are leading the way in reviving both the ancient vines and the traditional winemaking practices of the Cinque Terre. Their work is not only preserving a piece of viticultural history but also ensuring that future generations will be able to taste and appreciate the unique wines of this remarkable region.

If you’re looking for an authentic and unforgettable wine experience in Cinque Terre, a visit to Cian du Giorgi should be at the top of your list. You’ll leave inspired by their dedication, impressed by their wines, and eager to return to see what they create next.

Thank you, Adeline and Riccardo, for a truly special visit.