A Wine Day Trip: From Asti to Monferrato

If you find yourself in Turin with a free day, consider this a sign to embark on a wine trip. This journey from Asti to Monferrato offers not only unique scenery but also a deep dive into two distinct winemaking philosophies. In this article, I’ll guide you through my recent visit to two wineries: Cascina Tavijn and Tenuta Migliavacca. Both embody the rich heritage of Piedmontese wine, yet each brings its own unique touch to the table.

First Stop: Lunch in Asti at Enoteca Malia

Before diving into the world of vineyards, I made a pit stop in Asti for a leisurely lunch. Nestled in the heart of the city, Enoteca Malia offers an inviting atmosphere perfect for kicking off a wine-filled day. I indulged in a classic vitello tonnato, a Piedmontese staple, accompanied by their simple yet divine rosemary and olive oil bread. It’s a testament to how the simplest ingredients, when executed well, can elevate a meal. With a full stomach and high spirits, I was ready to explore.

Cascina Tavijn: Natural Winemaking at Its Best

Cascina Tavijn, located in Scurzolengo, is a testament to the beauty of natural winemaking. I was greeted by Nadia Verrua, the fourth-generation winemaker of her family, whose passion is evident in every corner of the estate. The winery’s history dates back to 1908, and today it spans 9 hectares of vineyards perched at 300 meters above sea level. The terroir here is a mix of lime and sand, perfect for crafting wines with character and finesse.

Philosophy and Approach

Nadia has embraced organic practices and champions spontaneous fermentation, letting nature guide the process. Her wines are unfiltered and unfined, preserving the essence of the grapes and the terroir. For Nadia, wine is a reflection of heritage and innovation. Her love for Grignolino, which she calls “her roots,” and Ruchè, which she sees as “the future of her hills,” speaks volumes about her connection to the land.

Some Tasting Highlights

Nadia’s portfolio is diverse and exciting, offering something for every palate. Here’s a closer look at her standout wines:

• Bandita: Made from Barbera, it’s juicy and vibrant, with notes of dark cherry, blackberry, and earthy undertones.

• Mostro: A playful pet-nat (natural sparkling). It’s lightly fizzy with bright red fruit flavors and hints of herbs.

• Ottavio: light body, soft tannin, and red fruit notes, making it a great expression of a lesser-known Piedmontese variety.

During my visit, Nadia gave me a sneak peek of the new Mostro vintage, which was still evolving. I’m eager to see how it has developed in the months since.

Tenuta Migliavacca: Pioneers of Biodynamic Viticulture

Next, I headed to Tenuta Migliavacca in Vignale Monferrato, where I met Francesco Brezza. The estate was originally acquired by Enrico Brezza in 1921. In 1933, Andrea Brezza, Francesco’s grandfather, planted the first vineyards and constructed the estate’s first cellar. Francesco’s father, Luigi, is a pivotal figure in Italian winemaking, as he transitioned the farm to biodynamic practices in 1964, making Tenuta Migliavacca the first certified biodynamic winery in Italy. Francesco doesn’t consider himself merely a winemaker; he sees himself as a farmer, deeply connected to the land and its ecosystems.

A Closed-Loop System

At Tenuta Migliavacca, everything is produced in-house. The estate operates as a closed-loop farm, where animals, crops, and vines coexist symbiotically. The cows provide natural fertilizer, fed by the herbs and grasses cultivated on the property. This holistic approach not only nurtures the soil but also enhances the health of the entire farm. Even the aroma in the stables speaks to the well-being of the animals.

Tasting Highlights

Francesco’s wines are a pure expression of the Monferrato terroir. Here’s a selection of what you can expect:

• Barbera del Monferrato Superiore: ripe red fruits like cherries and plums, balanced with earthy undertones and a medium body.

• Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese: Ruby colour, floral notes, hints of wld strawberries, this wine offers a vibrant acidity with a slightly tannic finish.

• Freisa: more tannic structure, with flavours of dark berries and a touch of spice.

Francesco’s dedication to biodynamic principles ensures that every bottle reflects not just the vineyard but the entire farm ecosystem.

The Wine Regions: Asti and Monferrato

Both Asti and Monferrato are integral parts of Piedmont’s winemaking identity. Asti is known for its sparkling wines, particularly Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, while Monferrato is famed for its robust reds like Barbera and Grignolino. The rolling hills, rich soils, and favorable climate make these regions ideal for viticulture. Cascina Tavijn can definitely offer another point of view from the traditional regional offer, and Migliavacca an example of best practices while following traditional productions. This day trip offers a fascinating glimpse into the diverse world of Piedmontese wine. Each sip tells a story—of tradition, innovation, and a profound respect for the land.

Plan Your Visit!

Whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or just beginning your wine journey, these two wineries promise an unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, and set off on a journey through the heart of Piedmont.